What happens if you wait
Once the sludge and scum layers close in, solids get carried out with the liquid and into the drain field. Soil that has been clogged with solids does not un-clog itself.
The core job
Every few years the tank has to be emptied out or the system starts backing up into the house. This page explains what is actually happening down there, how to tell when yours is due, and exactly what a job looks like from the phone call to the truck pulling away.
Backing up right now? Skip the reading and call — you'll get a straight answer on today in about a minute.
Call (361) 212-2245First, what's down there
Everything that leaves your house — sinks, showers, laundry, toilets — runs into one buried tank. Inside it, the waste separates into three layers, and it does that entirely by sitting still.
The heavy solids sink and form a layer of sludge on the floor of the tank. Grease, fats and soap scum float and form a crust on top. In between sits the relatively clear liquid, and that middle layer is the only part meant to leave the tank. It flows out to your drain field, where the soil finishes the job.
Bacteria in the tank break some of that material down, but not all of it. What's left keeps accumulating, year after year. The sludge layer creeps up from the bottom, the scum crust thickens down from the top, and the clear middle band they're squeezing gets thinner.
That is the whole problem. Nothing is broken — the tank is just full.
Why the timing matters
Leave it long enough and solids stop staying in the tank. That is the failure that costs real money.
Once the sludge and scum layers close in, solids get carried out with the liquid and into the drain field. Soil that has been clogged with solids does not un-clog itself.
Pumping a tank is routine maintenance. Replacing a failed drain field is excavation, permits and a new field — an entirely different order of cost and disruption.
Have it pumped on a sensible interval and the tank does its job quietly for decades. Most of the emergencies we get called to were avoidable a year earlier.
Reading your own system
One slow fixture is usually a blockage in that line. Every drain in the house slowing down at once points at the tank, not the plumbing.
Toilets burping, or a drain glugging when a different one is running. That's air being displaced because liquid isn't moving out of the tank the way it should.
Sewage odor indoors, or outside near the tank or the drain field. A healthy system shouldn't announce itself.
Spongy, standing-wet patches over the drain field — or a stripe of grass noticeably greener and faster-growing than the rest of the yard. That is effluent surfacing.
For most households it's every three to five years. Tank size and how many people live there move that number more than anything else — the same tank serving four people fills nearly twice as fast as it does serving two.
If you don't know when it was last done, it's worth starting the clock with a known date rather than inheriting somebody else's guess.
Start to finish
Five steps. Most residential jobs are done inside an hour or two, though finding a buried lid can add to that.
We'll ask roughly what size tank you have, whereabouts you are, and what the system is doing. If you don't know your tank size, that's normal — most people don't, and we can work from the size of the house. You get a real figure before anyone gets in a truck, and that figure is what you pay.
Sometimes the lids are sitting proud of the grass and it takes a minute. Often they're buried under a few inches of soil and have been since the place was built, and they have to be probed for and dug out by hand. An aerobic system has several chambers with a lid over each one — all of them come off, not just the one that's easiest to reach.
The suction hose goes in through the main opening rather than a small inspection port, because that's the only way to reach the sludge on the floor of the tank. Liquid comes off first, then the heavy material underneath it, and the crust on top has to be broken up and drawn out too. The truck stays on firm ground and we run hose to the tank — no driving a loaded truck across your lawn.
With an empty tank there's a clear view of things worth knowing about: the condition of the inlet and outlet baffles, cracks, and whether liquid is running back into the tank from the drain field — which tells you the field is struggling. We'll tell you what we saw. We don't do repairs, so there's nothing in it for us either way.
Lids reseated properly, soil raked back, hoses off your grass. What comes out of your tank has to go to an approved disposal site, and hauling it is exactly what our license covers — it doesn't go anywhere else.
Makes the day quicker
Know roughly where the lids are. If you've had it pumped before, or there's a spot in the yard that's always slightly sunken, that's the place. Not knowing is fine — it just adds probing time.
Tell us about the access. Gates, cattle guards, low branches, soft ground after rain, a long drive. We'd rather bring the right truck and enough hose than find out on arrival.
Keep vehicles clear of the route between where a truck can park and where the tank is.
Go easy on the water that morning. A load of laundry running while we pump just refills what we're taking out.
We pump both. If your system has an electrical box, a pump humming away, or sprinkler heads in the yard, it's almost certainly aerobic and has several chambers. If it's an older place with a tank and a drain field and no power to it, it's conventional. Not sure? Describe what you can see and we'll work it out on the phone.
Free estimate over the phone. Tell us your town and roughly what size tank you've got, and you'll have a price and an honest answer on timing in a couple of minutes.